Peggy Hall ([info]misty_moonlight) wrote,
@ 2005-12-03 14:07:00
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Entry tags:grand canyon west, trip

The Grand Canyon, behind a fence
Tower comparison Last weekend, on the day after Thanksgiving, Brian ([info]plutarck) and I decided to take a drive out to the Grand Canyon Skywalk. I learned about it when the Snopes feed came through my LJ, and many of the people there were complaining about how they were marring up the beautiful scenery with this thing. I argued that this was done by the Hualapai Nation tribe, and that I was sure it would be done in as much of a non-intrusive manner as possible, and they would respect the environment.

The sky-walk is supposed to be finished early in 2006, and so we expected to find it near completion. We were hoping to get some photos of a work in progress. Brian and I were both very excited to see it, and this was going to be a great outing for us. The Skywalk is at Grand Canyon West, and up until now, I didn't even know that you could access the canyon from this close to our home. It only took us about 2 and a half hours or so to get out there.

We took HWY 93 to the Dolan Springs turnoff (Pierce Ferry Road), and then followed the signs to Grand Canyon West, and turned on Diamond Bar road. Dolan Springs hasn't changed much - it's still pretty much a hole in the wall, but we ignored all of this as we went through, and continued on to see the Canyon compound.

The beginning of our adventure
We got to the turnoff to Grand Canyon West and realised that we were going to be on a dirt road for about 21 miles. This road was extremely rough, and washboard-y. It even had a spot in the road where a wash flows, and came with warnings about flash floods. I can't imagine what will happen to tourists when they get out there and it begins to rain. They may be stranded. There was a "Welcome Center" shortly before this turn-off, and the brochure says that you'll be able to park there and take a bus over the dirt road to the Canyon, "for a small fee". We continued on, and dodged the tail pipes, bumpers, and hub caps that other weary travelers had left behind on their trek out here.

The scenery was gorgeous! We were in the "Joshua Tree Forest, Grand Wash Cliffs" and there were signs up that it was a critical environmental concern. You have to go through BLM land to get to the place.

It took us quite a while to drive the 21 miles, as it was slow going, and I was hoping no pieces of my Chevy Van ended up as road ornaments along the way. We became concerned with what we saw from the other drivers that we were meeting on the road. None of them looked very happy. In fact, they looked down right angry. I feared that we'd be going out here only to find out that the road was closed somewhere down the line, or something. I eventually decided that they were just bothered by the condition of the road they were on, and we kept going.

When we finally reached pavement, we were greeted with signs that said "Low flying aircraft, do not stop, do not leave the pavement." We came upon an area that had several make-shift buildings and we wondered if we were in the right spot. Of course, at first I was afraid to slow down and see *Laughs* "Do not stop, low flying aircraft" and all. Then we saw the parking lot, and we stopped to ask directions to the Skywalk. That was all we stopped for, as this surely wasn't it. There were a bunch of metal buildings there, and big fuel tanks all over the place. Who knew that were actually at the Grand Canyon?

No entry- the road you have to go down to get to see the canyon or the skywalk
When we got out of the car, there was a Native American man walking out of the building that turned out to be the Airport, Gift shop, and main place for the skywalk. I'd post a picture of the man, but you can't take pictures of him unless you buy an expensive $49.95 per person package to see the canyon. He was a plump fella, in full headdress, black denim jeans, blue T-shirt, and white tenni's. We asked the man how we got out to the Skywalk, and he pointed down a road that had a "No private vehicles" sign. He told us to go inside and inquire about a package that would take us down there. This is where I first got the very real impression that something was very wrong here. I asked Brian if he wanted to go inside, as I was ready to turn and run right there, but he wasn't feeling it yet (we really WANTED this to be a good thing!) so we went inside. We've been to the Grand Canyon up by Flagg before, and it costs something like 15 dollars per carload - and that got you a pass for an entire 10 days or so. After I saw that I couldn't actually drive down the road to our destination here, I became quite frightened of it all.

Once we got inside, we found there were four different packages you could buy. The earth package was $29.95, and that got you to two viewpoints along the rim of the Canyon for 15 minute stops. You HAVE to buy a package and ride a bus just to see the canyon from here. The next package was the spirit package for $49.95, and that got you three stops along the Canyon, photo opps with the Natives, as well as a meal at the "Ranch". The next package was the Sky package at $69.95, and you get everything that comes with the spirit package - but includes the walk on the skywalk. Or at least, so says the web site, but their brochure just says that you can "see the skywalk". I believe you still have to pay again to walk on it, because they say that you can add the walk to any package for 25 dollars. The next package was the Explorer, for $109.95. Which comes with everything in the spirit package, and includes a horseback ride or hummer tour. You can add the skywalk to any of the packages for $25.00.

Snopes had posted that it was $25 dollars to walk the walk, but they neglected the bit of information that it was going to cost you at least 29.95 per person to even get to the walk - to walk it. Your grand total to take the skywalk is a bare minimum of $54.95 plus tax (yes, they charge tax... on the reservation) Per person! Brian noted how they seemed to put the explorer(white man) above the earth, sky and spirit.

We asked if we could get close enough to the skywalk to photograph it being built if we paid the $29.95. This is what we had come out here for, and on this particular day they were offering a discount on the "base" package, so we were considering paying it. Which is when we found out that all they have done thus far is drill holes into the side of the canyon, and there was nothing to see. Now, this thing is scheduled to open at the beginning of the year, and has supposedly undergone all these safety tests that it can hold 71 million pounds, and can sustain winds up to 100 miles per hour. Mind you, the wind whips through that canyon - we get 60 MPH gusts where I'm at, which is not far from there, up in the Black Mountains. Brian and I couldn't figure out how they'd tested it if they don't have it up yet? We figured they must have tested models, and we were glad that they had tested their model making skills. Lets hope nature conforms to their models (but now we're getting into the "engineer" package).

We went and browsed the gift shop while we considered our purchase option. On this reservation the gift shop has fake Chinese and Mexican made products that were to look like Native American stuff, and all displayed next to T-shirts that said "Proud of our Heritage". Brian joked that what they must be proud of is their heritage of being notoriously bad traders, because this gift shop was really something awful. It was really the final thing that made us decide not to pay the money to see the canyon. The place where we were was so mucked up with pavement, landing pads, run ways, fuel tanks, fences, and signs, and then the gift shop didn't even have real Native American products in it. Neither of us actually wanted to see what they had done to the viewpoints, and especially after paying that kind of money. The brochure says they have a Hualapai village with a market at the Eagle Point view.

Paved Paradise
So, we left the building and we looked around, and decided to walk out to the edge of the canyon. We could see it, so we figured we could walk out there. We were promptly stopped by people who said we weren't allowed out there. It was a helicopter landing pad, and we couldn't go any further.








Canyon behind a fence Which is when we changed directions and headed out to the rim - off to the right of where we were. That's when we saw the big ole fence. "The Grand Canyon, behind a fence... How poetic" I exclaimed, and we headed back to the car. There was No way to see the Canyon from here, without paying the $29.95 per person.








The skyline at Grand Canyon West
On our way back to the car, we ran into several other lost souls who had made the trek out here, only to be greeted by this mess. One couple from Germany could barely keep their jaws from gaping at how awful this experience turned out to be. We told them that the canyon is much prettier, the scenery and the skyline is far less marred up north, and recommended they go there. I felt bad for all the people who had come out here, thinking this was "The Grand Canyon." This was "The Grand Rip-off" filled with cheapness, disrespect for the wonder that they had possession of, and pure unadulterated greed.

We won't be going on the skywalk when it opens, and we certainly don't recommend it to anyone. Put the money in your gas tank, and go up north.

(PS, We were -really- glad to get back to Dolan Springs! We stopped at the Double D market, and the people were really very nice.)

More of the skyline

Another fence in another area, this one is barbed wire. Planes and Helicopters are all around

That is jet fuel in the tank, which is on the edge of the Canyon

The road you go down to get to the view points and sky walk. That's a metal shed right next to it, and no private vehicle sign there


Brian's slightly more colorful version of our experience





(19 comments) - (Post a new comment)


[info]treaclelilly
2005-12-04 04:44 pm UTC (link)
When we went to the Grand Canyon a couple of years ago, we did the tacky train ride from Williams, AZ. I think it came out 66 bucks per person.

The Canyon's beautiful, but I damn well wouldn't appreciate paying 55 bucks just to go on a "sky walk". Much less pay $50 to take a picture of a human being! (who's wearing JEANS, of all things; so much for the full dress)

(Reply to this) (Thread)

Grand canyon?
(Anonymous)
2005-12-06 01:15 am UTC (link)
Been there. Done that. Biggest case of erosion I ever did see. Big waste of dollars to stand around with the other 10,000 tourists staring at some ditch in the ground. Now I took pictures and ate the 2.50 hot dog and looked at the artist rendition of the sky walk and decided it was all native american's revenge for conquering the navajo(crete, shawnee, paiute, arapaho, etc. etc. etc.). All designed to separate you (and me) from your money. I thought canyonlands national park was just as pretty and far more accessable than the grand canyon...and less crowded to boot! (try elephant hill road, what a hoot!)

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Re: Grand canyon?
[info]misty_moonlight
2005-12-06 04:34 am UTC (link)
See? this is my exact point. Anonymous poster, it's really not like that at other parts of the canyon!

These people sure did take the mystical beauty of such a wonderful thing.

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Re: Grand canyon?
[info]dedwarmo
2006-01-07 12:13 am UTC (link)
I spent two days on the North Rim and stayed at the North Rim Campground. I found the Canyon to be staggeringly beautiful. I didn't want to go back home. I'm not sure if I would pay the price to walk out on the Skywalk, but I don't have a problem with the Hualapai Nation building it, but they don't need my permission.

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Hoax or not?
(Anonymous)
2005-12-07 05:33 am UTC (link)
My wife and I will be there in a little more than two week's time to see for ourselves. What I can't understand is how all these big time publications (USA Today, etc) ran this story (including its Jan 1 opening and mid-2005 "test"), without checking their facts first. Does ANYONE have a real life picture of this thing? Am I going to have to drive there all the way from Canada to determine its authenticity? Your story really has me intrigued. Are you sure you're not making it up? ;-)

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Re: Hoax or not?
[info]misty_moonlight
2005-12-07 07:10 am UTC (link)
Nope! Made it all up. :)

I'd recomend that you see the Grand Canyon up north first.. Just so you can get a real feel for the gravity of what they've done here at Grand Canyon West.

I went back out there today. The Bloggoshere came up with $125 for me to drive back out there, and take the bus ride.

I'm still uploading pictures, and i'll be writing a new entry about my experiences today, but here is what I have uploaded thus far. The photos that begin with s- on this index, are the ones of the "skywalk".

http://eyecatchershome.com/skywalk/

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Re: Hoax or not?
(Anonymous)
2006-01-13 08:27 pm UTC (link)
I saw your unflattering pictures of the skywalk, did you ever post comments of your journey. Iwas wondering if it looked like any progress was being made. want to check it out in the fall, probably won't be done then is my guess, if ever.

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Re: Hoax or not?
(Anonymous)
2006-05-13 02:37 am UTC (link)
Hey, y'all. The June '06 Popular Science mag has a short blurb about the skywalk with a few additional details and a different drawing that what I've seen before. Also on the web at http://www.popsci.com/popsci/whatsnew/77a63b576ce1b010vgnvcm1000004eecbccdrcrd.html if you want to check it out. They say "open late this year".
Also, the architects website has been upgraded since I first saw it in the early stages of this discussion, but there is little information there.

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[info]billietamip
2008-07-17 10:25 am UTC (link)
(Anonymous) am UTC ( link ) My wife and I will be there in a little more than two week's time to see for ourselves.

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[info]gwytherinn
2005-12-10 03:21 am UTC (link)
Oh... my... goodness... this is seriously sickening. And who the hell "owns" the grand canyon anyway that they can put a fence up to PREVENT you from going to look at it? I need to read the follow up you made.

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Rights, scam and Canyon
(Anonymous)
2005-12-21 01:12 pm UTC (link)
They can't prevent you from looking, but the area in question is a Revervation, and they CAN prevent you from being there at all. Since we took everything else from them, including their way of life, one has to cut the natives a little slack on what of their traditional homeland we've left them. However, neither the Hualapai or any other tribe I've come in contact with (Hopi, Navajo, Yavapai, Apache, Pima, Paiute, etc.) is any more noble or any less venal than anyone else. I suppose when you take into account their limited opportunities, their blatant opportunism is understandable.

Is it a scam? Possibly. It may also just be a failed project. That happens a lot, especially in the West.

And yes, I know what I'm talking about. I've lived (and still do) in Arizona for 10 years, and I worked at the Grand Canyon for two. The Grand Canyon is a staggeringly beautiful---perhaps even spiritual, depending on your definition---place to those capable of appreciating wonder and beauty (and don't kid yourself, not everyone is). It is well worth the trip, assuming the traveller is. I had mixed feelings when I heard about this thing (Skybridge) in the first place, but the Canyon is huge; if you never go to the Res you'll never see it anyway, and few tourists do anything but spend 15 minutes at an overlook, camp at the abominable campground and stop at the general store in the Park for an overpriced bottle of tasteless water.

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Heading for the Skywalk Today
[info]gosw
2007-03-20 01:22 pm UTC (link)
I am a journalist flying up to see the Skywalk at the Grand Opening today. I appreciated your story and linked to it from my front page blog: http://gosw.about.com
I will get more info and pictures. Thanks again for your story.
Liz

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Re: Heading for the Skywalk Today
[info]misty_moonlight
2007-03-21 09:01 am UTC (link)
Looking foreward to seeing your pictures, Liz! thanks for stopping by!

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Re: Heading for the Skywalk Today
[info]gosw
2007-04-03 11:36 pm UTC (link)
Thanks for the opportunity to post my experiences. After reading your story, I was really pessimistic!
Liz

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Well, I changed my mind
[info]gosw
2007-03-23 03:05 am UTC (link)
I thought I agreed with what you wrote and was really expecting a big "tourist trap." But, after the Grand Opening and exploring the beautiful canyon land up at Grand Canyone West, I have to say it was a really unique place. And, if you read any of my articles, you will see that I feel that the charges, although high, are important to the survival of the Hualapai Tribe who own the lands there. They are an impoverished tribe and are continuing to improve the facilities to actually have a place people see as a vacation destination. Here's my review of the VIP Grand Opening: http://gosw.about.com/od/grandcanyon/a/skybridgeopens.htm
And here's my photos: http://gosw.about.com/od/grandcanyon/ig/Skywalk-Grand-Opening/index.htm
Let me know what you think.
Liz

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skywalk
(Anonymous)
2007-04-02 09:30 am UTC (link)
My husband, myself and three friends went out to the skywalk on April 1,2007. The dirt road was like a washboard and jars your car really bad. When we got there they charged us $82 each and made us leave our cars in a dirt field and cram you on a tour bus. They drop you off at the skywalk and make you check all personal belongings with security. No purses, cameras or even water. The skywalk is beautiful. The indian employees are sweet. Then they make you line up in the heat with no cover from sun. We burnt badly. We had to wait an hour at every stop for transportation. The buffet food was terrible and the eating facilities are terrible. NO cold drinks as they ran out of the nasty tea they were serving. Bird poop all over the tables and benches. They are not ready for the masses that are showing up. They need to offer some humane ammenities before opening to the general public like this. People were very angry and hot and miserable. They threatened one couple with tribal police at one point if they did not stop telling people how miserable they were. The web sites promise a tour price of $25 for the skywalk and they refused to honor it. If you did not like their prices you were sent packing. It was over all a terrible experience and we will never be back. donh48@yahoo.com

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Grand Canyon West
[info]gosw
2007-04-03 11:35 pm UTC (link)
I am so sorry to hear all the comments that ruin what could be a beautiful experience. To me, visiting Grand Canyon West is all about the Canyon. The star of the experience is the canyon. It's absolutely beautiful and different from Grand Canyon National Park. I was impressed. The Skywalk is just a way to see it from a different angle. The Canyon is what people need to see. By the way, I hear that horrible washboard road will be paved this summer. Here's an article to help people differentiate the "three Grand Canyons" and my photos of the Canyon.
http://gosw.about.com/od/grandcanyon/tp/grandcanyon.htm
http://gosw.about.com/od/arizonatravelguide/a/skywalkvisit.htm
Cool picture: http://gosw.about.com/od/grandcanyon/ig/Skywalk-Grand-Opening/Grand-Canyon-West.htm
Enough for now. I think if I had driven all the way up there, without any information, I'd be ticked too!
Liz

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Re: Grand Canyon West
[info]misty_moonlight
2007-04-07 02:57 am UTC (link)
Did you happen to see my pics of the quarters that the indian workers there live in? For their fees being about taking care of their tribe, they're doing a crappy job of it.

Also - I agree - It IS about the canyon.. so why the high prices just to do that? You can't drive to grand canyon west and see the conyon without paying a huge fee that is per person and not per carload. It's terribly expensive, and the first tiem we went out there we didn't get to see the conyon becuase we didn't have enough money.

Yes, it is their land and yes.. they can do whatever they want to with it, but non-the-less, this is a scam because you are not informed up front what it will cost.

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Re: Grand Canyon West
[info]gosw
2007-04-07 12:49 pm UTC (link)
I think when you went it was surprising to be charged so much after driving so far but now with all the publicity people have more info. so should know what to expect. No, I didn't see those particular photos. I will go look now...
Liz
http://gosw.about.com

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